shallow-water wave speed

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• wave — waveless, adj. wavelessly, adv. wavingly, adv. wavelike, adj. /wayv/, n., v., waved, waving. n. 1. a disturbance on the surface of a liquid body, as the sea or a lake, in the form of a moving ridge or swell. 2. any surging or progressing movement …   Universalium

• Wave — /wayv/, n. a member of the Waves. Also, WAVE. [1942; see WAVES] * * * I In oceanography, a ridge or swell on the surface of a body of water, normally having a forward motion distinct from the motions of the particles that compose it. Ocean waves… …   Universalium

• Wave — A wave is a disturbance that propagates through space and time, usually with transference of energy. While a mechanical wave exists in a medium (which on deformation is capable of producing elastic restoring forces), waves of electromagnetic… …   Wikipedia

• Dispersion (water waves) — This article is about dispersion of waves on a water surface. For other forms of dispersion, see Dispersion (disambiguation). In fluid dynamics, dispersion of water waves generally refers to frequency dispersion, which means that waves of… …   Wikipedia

• Cnoidal wave — US Army bombers flying over near periodic swell in shallow water, close to the Panama coast (1933). The sharp crests and very flat troughs are characteristic for cnoidal waves. In fluid dynamics, a cnoidal wave is a nonlinear and exact periodic… …   Wikipedia

• Shock wave — Bombshock redirects here. For the Transformers character, see Micromasters#Bombshock. For other uses, see shockwave. Schlieren photograph of an attached shock on a sharp nosed supersonic body. A shock wave (also called shock front or simply shock …   Wikipedia

• List of wave topics — This is a list of wave topics.0 ndash;9*21 cm lineA*Abbe prism *absorption spectrum *acoustics *Airy disc *Airy wave theory *Alfvén wave *Alpha waves *amphidromic point *amplitude *amplitude modulation *analog sound vs. digital sound *animal… …   Wikipedia

• wave motion — ▪ physics       propagation of disturbances that is, deviations from a state of rest or equilibrium from place to place in a regular and organized way. Most familiar are surface waves on water, but both sound and light travel as wavelike… …   Universalium

• Wind wave — Ocean wave redirects here. For the film, see Ocean Waves (film). North Pacific storm waves as seen from the NOAA M/V Noble Star, Winter 1989 …   Wikipedia

• Ocean surface wave — Ocean surface waves are surface waves that occur on the free surface of the ocean. They usually result from wind, and are also referred to as wind waves. Some waves can travel thousands of miles before reaching land. They range in size from small …   Wikipedia

• Airy wave theory — In fluid dynamics, Airy wave theory (often referred to as linear wave theory) gives a linearised description of the propagation of gravity waves on the surface of a homogeneous fluid layer. The theory assumes that the fluid layer has a uniform… …   Wikipedia